Guest Blog Post By Jan Carpenter
Winter travels from Tromsø, Norway to Kilpisjärvi, Finland; Beauty, Balance, and flexibility.
As I travel through life, my needs and preferences on the road evolve. I want to do and experience everything but need balance. Alcohol inhibits my fun, energy, and authentic experience. I highly value incorporating rest stops and time to pause inside my adventures. Sometimes booking economically, “a bed, I am only going to sleep there,” fits the bill. Booking the upgraded room with a view if the price is right or finding a local rental can add substantial depth to one’s travels. Finding the perfect lodgings can take some digging. I am always glad when I do, as a great “find” can be the ingredient that binds together the trip and enables one to appreciate all the elements as a whole more fully. Sometimes, the lodgings can be the experience themselves.
Vasara Reindeer Ranch, Kilpisjärvi Finland
KOSELIG: CONNECTION, WARMTH, JOY
I love the Norwegian concept of “Koselig”, central to its national character. Koselig envelops that which makes you feel happy and evokes warm feelings inside you, both physically and emotionally. Koselig is Norway’s version of hygge. Both notions are all about feeling snug, safe, and happy. Koselig builds on hygge with a heightened focus on connecting with people, nature, and the outdoors. The Polar Nights are dark and long, and feeling positive in those moments can feel difficult to do so. Koselig, by creation, positivity, and opening one’s perception, forms the energy and beauty we found in the far, far north.
TROMSO, NORWAY
Sipping tea, curled up in a soft blanket, immersed in a spectacular view over Tromsø harbor & surrounding mountains proved to be a perfect way to start, pause, and end our days in the Arctic circle. Mornings and evenings gave us a light show no feat of engineering could replicate. Grand windows in our Airbnb set the stage for twinkly lights reflecting in the waters while illuminating Mount Storsteinen and the Fjellheisen cable car route we enjoyed on our first day. Looking back from atop the cable car, we could also pick out our home away from home, making us feel very connected.
Airbnb: Øyvind’s Place, Tromsø, Norway
POLAR NIGHTS AND WINTER SUN
January daylight hours are short near latitude 70°N. The first three weeks of the month are still within the Polar nights, a phenomenon where night lasts for more than 24 hours. The transformation of colors as the sun returns end of the month is mesmerizing. We felt the joy of the locals with the emerging sun, embracing the plethora of outdoor activities and reconnecting. I felt fortunate to share the experience with a wonderful friend, grateful we each had our own snuggly bedroom to rest and recharge for our daily adventures. We spent four nights in our perfect two-bedroom AirBnB, which gave balance, connection, vistas, and coziness. 
ROAD TRIP: LYNGEN ALPS, SEARCH FOR A GLASS IGLOO
The surrounding regions of Tromsø in northern Norway are spectacular. Choosing a road trip into nature to compliment our city stay brought me on a virtual journey of immense beauty and options. Colorful fishing villages, backcountry ski touring, family dogsledding outfitters, remote islands all called to me. Spending the night in an igloo in Finland was a top five bucket list item. Many options exist in Norway too, which I explored, but availability, cost and logistics kept befuddling me.
I can get very lost in maps, a favorite pastime. Glad I did, as perusing different routes led me to find Mia Vasara of Vasara Reindeer Ranch in the wilderness area of Kilpisjärvi, Finland, close to where Sweden, Finland & Norway meet. At first, I, a frugal Yankee, had a hard time booking the room. Taking to heart I may not be able to align the planets again to stay in a glass igloo on a reindeer ranch in northern Finland, I decided to leap at the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity – Carpe Diem – and booked it. Little did I know the all-encompassing magical experience that awaited. It was absolutely not “just a room”.
NORTHERN LIGHTS HIGHWAY
Driving to Kilpisjärvi by way of the Lyngen Alps on ‘the Northern Lights Highway”, we threaded through mountains soaring up to 6000 feet from the sea. Sparkling snow-covered landscapes bathed in pinks and blues, words nor photographs can capture the beauty. We opted to rent a car to meander our way to Kilpisjärvi, but there is also a coach bus route with direct service: The Arctic Route Bus. Balancing the choice between navigating snowy winter roads with the ability to stop and explore vs. efficiently being driven in a comfortable coach bus was a tough decision. 
KILPISJARVI, FINLAND
My friend and I had tears well in our eyes as we entered the road to where our igloo and Finnish hosts awaited. The moon and sun simultaneously in the sky for the daylight hours, illuminated our arrival. One by one, then 100, 200, I don’t know how many reindeer appeared on all sides. The magnificent animals roamed free around us, gently approached if we stood quiet “still as a statue,” and peeked curiously at us. One sweet girl needed to sniff and follow us, even found us the next morning to nuzzle us again. 
Warm in the beautiful igloos for the evening, beautifully designed by our host Mia Vasara, we found true koselig. Mother Nature graced us with her dancing lady, the northern lights illuminating the night sky. Mia nourished us with homemade meals of culinary artistry included in our stay. Local recipes, her mother’s favorites, all brought together with Mia’s touch & hospitality, perfected the experience. I will treasure this moment in time for the rest of my life.
Arctic Land Adventure Igloos, Hosted by Mia Vasara
Photo by Margaret Ward, A.F.A.R. Adventure Alcohol-Free Retreats
ALCOHOL-FREE TRAVEL
I choose to live life alcohol-free. Leaving the booze off the itinerary enhances my experience and boosts my energy to drink in the good stuff. Additional benefits are saving money, more time for exploring, no lost hungover mornings, rested sunrises, being fully present for all activities, enhanced safety and so much more. My friend, and travel companion, Margaret Ward leads Alcohol Free trips for Women with A.F.A.R. Adventure Alcohol Free Retreats. I have been a participant on multiple trips and they are true life highlights!
I am grateful to have experienced true Koselig and shall carry it always.
Written by Jan Carpenter
