When they say there is a temple on every corner in Chiang Mai they aren’t kidding. There is literally a temple on EVERY corner. I would venture to guess that there may be as many, if not more, temples than there are 7-11’s. It can be downright overwhelming, especially when you are then hit with terms like, wat, stupa, chedi, pagoda (you can begin to feel a little stupa). Unless you want some serious temple overload I suggest picking and choosing your temples wisely. The following are my personal favorites, they may not be the most popular but they each hold a uniqueness that make them truly special.
Although I do not include Doi Suthep, the most popular temple in Chiang Mai, if you do venture there, try to go to catch the sunrise. The temple grounds will not yet be covered by tourists, you won’t be assaulted by any food vendors and you will get a beautiful, unobstructed view of the city (unless it’s March, then you won’t see a darn thing).
Sunrise at Doi Suthep
WAT UMONG
My daughter and I renamed Wat Umong the Rooster Temple. Nestled in the forest, about one mile south of the University, it is by far the most unusual temple we experienced. We grabbed an uber and headed there first thing in the morning. When we arrived we were met by roosters. Everywhere. In the trees, coming out of the forest. It’s as if they heard we were coming and wanted to greet us personally. Besides roosters, we also encountered stray dogs, cats, baby chickens and about 10 million pigeons. Following the paths through the temple grounds you are lead to a largish pond where you can purchase food to feed the fish. Since it is illegal to fish on temple grounds, the catfish in this pond have grown to sizes you would not think humanly possible. It is also said that if you spot any turtle you will be blessed with good luck. I’m not really sure how long this luck is suppose to last for but I hope it’s for a really long time because we spotted not one, but TWO turtles!
Wat Umong is also named the temple of the tunnels. Because there are tunnels. On top of the mound of tunnels is a large, circular, bell shaped chedi (remember a chedi is just another name for a stupa, a structure containing sacred relics). The story goes that King Manglai built the tunnels to keep a deranged monk within the grounds of the monastery. I’m not sure if this is true or not but either way the tunnels are super cool. As are the roosters in the trees and the monster sized catfish.
WAT SRI SUPHAN
While most of the temples we saw began to blend together into one large amalgam, Wat Sri Suphan definitely stood out. The temple is situated just outside of the old city. If you’re walking you must travel through the silver district to reach it. Big hint. It’s silver. All silver. It was a smaller compound than some of the others we had seen but the artwork on the outside of the temple was amazing and well worth the effort it took to walk through what seemed liked 120 degree weather to reach it.
WAT CHEDI LUANG
If you are staying within the old walled city of Chiang Mai it will be impossible to miss Wat Chedi Luang. It is located in the center of the city and was one of the only temples that required paying an entrance fee (40 baht). The temple used to house the Emerald Buddha, one of the countries most revered religious relics but was moved to Bangkok after an earthquake destroyed part of the temple. It is a seriously impressive structure and the grounds are stunning. Arrive early in the morning and you will have the place entirely to yourself, wait until later in the day and you will be sharing it with about 5,000 others.
WAT PHA LAT
I’ve saved the best for last. Was Pha Lat is probably the best kept secret in Chiang Mai. The temple is built within the jungle, far away from any tuk-tuks or songtheaws. Although only a few miles down the road from Doi Suthep, the best way to access the temple is by hiking on a trail through the jungle (aptly called the monk’s trail). To get to the trail drive to the end of Suthep Road, turn right and go past the back entrance of the zoo. On the right will be a map indicating the trail. The trail itself will be marked by the orange cloth the monks use to dress themselves wrapped around the trees. It will take you about an hour and a half to reach the temple so make sure you bring enough water with you.
large rock waterfall overlooking Chiang Mai skyline
The grounds were originally used as a resting place for those making the pilgrimmage to Doi Suthep but then developed into a meditation retreat and residence for the monks. If you are looking for a little peace and quiet while temple hopping this is the place you’ll find it.
